Letting Go of the Bay Leaf: February 2020

Sunday, February 23, 2020

Mosaic Monday #68: 15 Miles on a Skipton Canal

A market town is a settlement that obtained the right

in the Middle Ages to host markets, which distinguished

it from a village or city.

As many times as I have traveled in Northeast England, I am still pleasantly surprised we can locate new places to explore. This post is about one of those spots, and continues the documentation of our visit to the UK in October 2019 (see previous posts here, here, and here). On a glorious autumn day, our destination was Skipton, a market town in North Yorkshire that is only 90 minutes from my in-laws' house. Despite its proximity, this was a first visit even for Spousal Unit!

We began with Skipton Castle, built in 1090 as a wooden motte-and-bailey, and strengthened with a stone keep in the 12th century to repel attacks from the Kingdom of Scotland. The Castle elevated Skipton from a poor dependent village, and its protection attracted families to the area. The Castle is now one of the most complete and best preserved medieval castles in England.

We were greeted by a friendly and knowledgeable docent just under the entry to the castle. He explained the self-guided tour, and sent us on our way. Immediately, we were struck by the sweep of the grounds leading to the central castle, and the towering beech trees clothed in fall colors.

Shortly, we entered a Tudor courtyard, the Conduit Court, which contains a yew tree, reputedly planted by Lady Anne Clifford in 1659. Yes, that means it is 361 years old! I have to say this is the first castle I have seen (and I have visited many) that has a tree growing in the middle of it!

The castle contains no furniture, and on this autumn day, it was easy to imagine how drafty and cold it must have been back in the day. No surprise, then, that each room had its own fireplace, including this oversized beast in the banquet hall.

Most castles stand on hilltops or perch on rocky outcroppings, chosen for their defensive properties. In the modern day, this translates into fine views in all directions, particularly since no skyscrapers rise into the sky to block the vistas.

In 1645, the Castle was "slighted" when it was taken by Parliament. Slighting is the deliberate damage of a building; in this case, the walls were shortened, disabling the height advantage and the means for the Castle to fire cannon. Lady Anne soon gained permission from Oliver Cromwell to rebuild - on condition that the walls were weaker and the roof unable to bear the weight of the cannon. In the picture at left, her new wall can be seen on top of the "slighted" original. She is said to have given Skipton special care because it was her birthplace.

Under the protective gaze of the Castle, Skipton became a prosperous market town, trading sheep and woolen goods; its name derives from the old English sceap (sheep) and tun (town).

Having thoroughly explored the Castle and grounds, our rumbling tummies sent us in search of a tea shop. We soon located The Three Sheep - its bustling atmosphere suggested good food could be found within. How right we were!

Fortified once again, we set off to explore the town. During one of the periods when we lived in the UK, our house was near a canal system, and I fell in love with the walkways that always parallel the waterways. So it was deeply appealing to me when I learned that Skipton has an extensive set of canals. We encountered this map and used it to guide our wandering feet for the next few hours.

As we returned to the town center, we found a canal boat waiting to get through a bridge. Check out this video - after some initial difficulty, the bridge was opened. You may be surprised how it works!

No visit to a UK town is complete without stopping in at least one ancient church. This day, our outing led us to Holy Trinity, a church that has stood at the top of the High Street for more than 6 centuries.

The magnificent oak choir screen dates from about 1533 and may have originated from Bolton Priory.

Upper left: Altar with Great East Window - depicts the crucifixion of Jesus

Lower left: the Clifford Tombs - this structure, along with a vault below the altar, contains the remains of

12 members of the Clifford family

Upon leaving the church, we briefly re-connected with the canal to gain entry to Skipton Castle Woods.

We had taken the above picture of the map in the car park when we first arrived, and it was a handy reference as we sauntered through the Woods back to our vehicle.

This wonderful, rare, ancient woodland has been a feature of the landscape for at least 1000 years. It was once part of Old Park, a great medieval hunting forest.

Rich hunting, fishing, timber and an easy to defend location made this an ideal place for Norman baron Robert De Romille to build his castle 900 years ago.

Fast forward to the 1700s and the wood helped power Skipton's industrial revolution, supplying building stone, timber and water to the mills nearby, all aided by the newly built canal network.

Eller Beck

In the 19th century, Skipton emerged as a small mill town connected to the major cities by the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. One of the oldest mills in North Yorkshire, High Corn Mill, is powered by the waters of Eller Beck, and dates to 1310 when it was owned by Robert de Clifford, 1st Baron de Clifford.

The town's economy shifted to tourism in the 20th century, aided by its historic architecture and proximity to the Yorkshire Dales. After our day-long tour, we can certainly appreciate the attraction and charms of Skipton.

In fact, as we lingered over coffee and dessert in a nearby village, we made a declaration that we would return for a longer stay on our next trip to the UK. Watch this space!

Mosaic Monday

Welcome to Mosaic Monday, a weekly meme where we get together to share our photo mosaics and collages.
Please include at least one photo mosaic/collage in your post.
The link will be open from 1 p.m. Sunday until 11 p.m. Monday (U.S. Mountain time).
Remember to add the link to your Mosaic Monday post and not the one to your blog.
Please link back to this post so that your readers will be able to visit and enjoy more wonderful mosaics; taking the MM blog button from my sidebar is an easy way to link back.
As host I will visit every participant and leave a comment so that you know I stopped by.
Please try and visit as many other blogs as you can, especially those that join in later, so that everyone's creativity can be appreciated fully.
Thank you for joining in today and sharing your mosaics with us.

Sunday, February 16, 2020

Mosaic Monday #67: Feelin' the Love

Hand-made card from Dear Neighbor Friend

I am not an attention seeker. More often, I can be found in the background, working diligently. Given a choice between entertaining a sizeable gathering or a cup of coffee with a close friend, the one-on-one chit-chat would win every time. But everyone wants to feel special occasionally, particularly when that occasion is one's birthday!!! This year, my birthday coincided with the last weekend of Whitefish Winter Carnival, and due to my responsibilities associated with the Carnival, I was not going to be home for much of the weekend. With that in mind, my Dear Neighbor Friend (DNF) stopped by a couple of days earlier to drop off my birthday present.

In the days leading up to my birthday, she made a point of telling me that my presents would not be items to gather dust, so I alternated between laughing and crying when I removed the tissue paper from the bag and saw the pile of cinnamon buns, as well as the ingredients for sausage gravy and biscuits. She sure knows the way to my heart (it's through my stomach)!

When I could finally tear my eyes from the delicious food, I quickly became overwhelmed by the hand-made card. DNF drew her inspiration from flip books that she created with her students, but the rest of it reflects my life. I was so touched.

Each page of the card has a picture and a phrase that finishes the sentence.

And the sentences build upon one another. The full card says:

This is the neighbor that skis and kayaks, emails and walks, hikes and visits

with the wife

that loves the husband

that feeds the kids

that adore the cat

that ignores the bird

that flits in the trees

behind the home

that Neal built.

Isn't it just incredibly clever and adorable? DNF - thank you for the wondrous start to my birthday!

The next day, the Whitefish Winter Carnival weekend began in earnest. The Carnival, now in its 61st year, has a storied tradition that includes royalty, Yetis, Viking Divas, penguins and much more. (You can read more about the legend here.) Each year, a button is designed to represent the chosen Carnival theme. My role in the Carnival involved the design and sale of the buttons. With a theme of The Roaring 2020's, the button featured the classic gold-on-black, art deco, Gatsby-esque look.

The Friday night Gala is a significant fund-raiser for the Carnival, and attendees come dressed in keeping with the Carnival theme. A button is required for entry, so I manned the door to sell buttons to anyone that didn't already possess one. It was the ideal spot to see everyone in their full 2020's regalia! As most readers know, Spousal Unit and I never miss an opportunity to dress up, and this was no exception!

Carnival Weekend reaches its peak with the Grand Parade on Saturday afternoon. Whitefish Mountain Resort sponsors a float, and since it is populated by Mountain Ambassadors, Spousal Unit and I were in the Parade!

Spousal Unit (center) with two other Ambassadors, waiting for parade to

start. Float - "Hellroaring Speakeasy"- is on the left

For the record, I do not own any furs. The fur and

stole were loaned to me by the mother of one of

the Ambassadors

It has been at least 35 years since I was in a parade, and I forgot how much fun it is. Hundreds of people throng the sidewalks. The kids are poised to pounce on the candy that scatters along the pavement as if Johnny Appleseed was sowing it. Parents keep one hand on the kids and one eye on the entertainment passing by - an almost impossible albeit admirable feat. Everyone gets into the spirit, waving and shouting and pretending to be a gangster or a flapper. For our efforts, some of us get our pictures in the paper! Now, is that a birthday present or what?

In between all of this frivolity, I was fulfilling my normal duties as an Ambassador, including skiing tours on the mountain. Suffice it to say that I was pretty exhausted by the time the end of the parade rolled around.

It was delightful to return home, shower and throw on my pajamas. In some cases, this was the first opportunity to read birthday texts and listen to phone greetings that had come in during the day. Several birthday cards also awaited me, adding to the warm, well-loved feeling.

I slept well. I might have dreamed about Yetis breaking into the speakeasy and kidnapping us, but if I did, I don't remember it. What I do recall is that Head Chef brought me breakfast in bed. One of my favorite breakfast meals - smoked salmon with caper sauce - served on toast, it was accompanied by breakfast potatoes and steaming coffee. Aaahhhh. Now my birthday was complete.

Mosaic Monday

Sunday, February 9, 2020

Mosaic Monday #66: Spring Fever

Easter wreath for our church

It may be only February 9, but recent events have conspired to push my mind (and heart) forward to Spring. Reading your blog posts, sprinkled with pictures of crocus emerging from the earth. Meeting with the church Flower Committee to plan for Lent, especially the pretty pastel colors that signify Easter morning. Discussing summer camping plans with Spousal Unit, since the application deadline for Glacier National Park is March 15.

I reached for my hiking journal, and promptly got lost among the wildflowers and lakes. Who knows how much time passed before I re-focused and decided to share two excursions from Spring 2019? (My structured self pushed to write about a hike on September 6, 2017 - in chronological order, it's the next one for a post, but you whimsical, will-o-the-wisp types will be happy to know that heart ruled over mind this time. After all, these Spring hikes fit the theme and my mood.) Enough of the preamble, let's hike!

Thursday, April 18, 2019 - Apgar Lookout - 9 miles out and back (Entry 45 in the journal)

Our first hike of 2019 was designed to initiate our training with our new backcountry camping gear, so we didn't mind repeating a hike we had previously completed with our son in May 2017. I carried 15 pounds and Spousal Unit hoisted 25, and we were both comfortable, even when we encountered snow from the last switchback to the summit. At points, we could walk on the edges of the trail, but at the higher elevations, the snow was easily 5 feet deep.

Near the summit

And how do I know the depth? At the summit, I went to use the pit toilet. No luck. I couldn't get the door open, but I could have walked directly onto the roof from the snow pile! I wish now that I had taken a picture of it!

View of Lake McDonald from the summit

Given this hike was nearly a month earlier than the previous time we came this way, flowers, plants and animals were not as abundant. Some buds were just beginning to pop.

Traction is often more critical going downhill, since gravity is "helping" you, so we strapped on our Traxx and reversed course. In no time we crossed the bridge and skirted the paddock for the trail ride horses (summer only). At this elevation, life was a little more evident - deer, Columbian ground squirrels and a mountain bluebird shared the quiet meadow. I couldn't help but imagine that they were enjoying the peace which exists before the tourists/horses arrive.

On our way home, we stopped at Glacier Distilling. Although we have passed it often, this was our first visit. A craft distillery and tasting room nestled in the foothills of Glacier National Park, it specializes in small-batch whiskeys that "reflect the rugged beauty of our surroundings". So good!

Bottom right: "Fireside Chat" cocktail - Fireweed Cherry Bourbon,

blood orange, charred rosemary shrub, sparkling soda

We went home with a botte of the Fireweed Cherry Bourbon!

Thursday, May 23, 2019 - Finger Lake Trailhead - 7 miles total (Entry 46 in the journal)

Our training regimen continued with this hike, featuring a shorter distance and less elevation but with more weight in our packs (18 for me and 30 for Spousal Unit). I was thrilled that we quickly came across a huddle of several Calypso Orchids. (See 3/9/18, 10/1/17 and 7/1/17 for more pictures of my favorite Montana flower.) Our strategy to choose a hike at a lower altitude in order to avoid snow and see more wildlife was already paying dividends! This hike also boasts three lakes within a short distance, which can be beneficial when hosting guests with a moderate level of fitness. So, this trip served as reconnaissance for the future. Win, win, win!!!

We originally planned to go to Finger Lake first, but the signpost we expected was missing, so going straight led us to Lagonis Lake.

Flowers were abundant, drawing critters such as this caterpillar.

Middle: Star-flowered False Solomon's Seal Right: Common Paintbrush

Upper left: Blue Violet Upper right: Silverberry

Bottom: Common Paintbrush

At this low elevation, we were surprised to see beargrass. And it had already formed heads for blooming.

We re-traced our steps, locating the turn we missed. On the way to Finger Lake, you pass through a meadow teeming with desert parsley, shooting stars and blue-eyed mary.

Middle: Shooting Stars Right: Hearleaf Arnica turns its face to the sun

Finger Lake features a dramatic flat rock outcropping, an ideal spot for snacking while overlooking the lake. Serviceberry bloomed profusely, framing the lake with frothy white.

Casting a final glance back at the idyllic scene above, we sauntered along the trail to the final lake in this triple crown of jewels - Hole in the Wall Lake. The trail traverses a marshy area, and thankfully a log boardwalk was built in 2015 to get over it with dry feet. As you approach, you catch a whiff of the pungent aroma emanating from the prolific skunk cabbage in the marsh.

Middle: Skunk Cabbage Left and Right: Unidentified plant that was also numerous in the marsh

The trail climbed steeply from the marsh, but only briefly before flattening and leading to the lake nestled against a stunning backdrop of sheer cliffs with red striations on the opposite shore.

Spousal Unit tried his hand at fly-fishing, but it was difficult with the tree-crowded shoreline. We employed our water filter for the first time to prepare our lunch and refill our water bottles. The Mesquite BBQ Seasoned Chicken with Beans and Rice was terrible - too much tomato and powdery tasting. This certainly would not be one of the meals we would take into the backcountry!

We arrived back at the trailhead by 3pm, which allowed plenty of time for a stop at the Stillwater Bar. Cheek to jowl with the Stillwater River, it's a terrific setting to sip an adult beverage and re-cap the day's adventures. And to dream about the hiking adventures to come!

Mosaic Monday