Letting Go of the Bay Leaf: Yellowstone

Showing posts with label Yellowstone. Show all posts

Sunday, November 15, 2020

Mosaic Monday #105: Road Trippin', Part III

October 15: Winter arrives in Yellowstone

We had big plans for the third day of our road trip. A visit to Lamar Valley, a wolf watching destination since wolves were reintroduced to Yellowstone in 1995. A hike to the summit of Bunsen Peak. Well, do you want to read the "rest of the story"?

Departing the cabin at 7.45 AM, the temperature gauge read 27 degrees. Brrr. Perhaps I should not be surprised that it did not seem to faze the cow elk we observed standing in the Madison River.

Or the bison grazing along the road, as you see in the video below. Yellowstone is the only place in the United States where bison have lived continuously since prehistoric times. Yellowstone bison are special because they are America's largest bison population on public land and have not been hybridized through breeding with cattle.

By 9 AM, it was snowing. Our truck was still sporting summer tires, so we took it steady. We reached Canyon Village around 9.30 only to find the road north closed. (We assumed because of snow, but I later learned - by reading the Park brochure - that this section of road was closed all year for construction!) This basically ruled out a visit to Lamar Valley, as it would take too much time to reach the Valley through Mammoth Hot Springs and still fit in our plans to hike/visit the Mammoth complex. I abhor backtracking, but there was no alternative. Reaching "new" territory, we headed north from Norris Basin and shortly passed Roaring Mountain.

We tooled along, speculating about the visibility from Bunsen Peak, our chosen hike. A few miles short of the trailhead, we could see red taillights. Hmmm - more wildlife? We pulled up behind a stopped car, the last in a line of at least a dozen vehicles, and the truck skidded slightly sideways. Oh dear. Not good. Ahead, we could see some flashing lights, but not much else through the falling snow. We waited 15 minutes, studying the map and watching several cars turn around and head back south. One paused to talk to us, but couldn't offer any information. We surmised that there was an accident ahead; the map showed the road entering a canyon with twists and turns. Shortly, a plow came southbound, and we made the tough choice to turn and follow it. No Bunsen Peak or Mammoth Hot Springs for us!

Our decision was rapidly affirmed as we squeezed past trucks skewed sideways on the road, and witnessed several vehicles in the ditch. Our day seemed blessed by comparison! We paused at Roaring Mountain for a couple of pictures. Amid the steam and sulfur-rich gases, microscopic organisms are hard at work. This barren slope, inhospitable to humans, is the perfect home for Sulfolobus acidocaldarius. Billion and billions of these thermophiles live here, wearing away the mountain. We also took the opportunity to select another hike - we don't give up easily!

Most of the route to Wolf Lake passed through a tangle of downed trees, among which lodgepole have emerged, sometimes quite thickly. It must have been an intense fire about 20 years ago. We encountered two stream crossings. Downed trees had to serve as make-shift bridges, and with a slick covering of snow, it was tricky!

The sun was shining when we first arrived at Wolf Lake, but suddenly the wind picked up and it began to snow, so we didn't linger. On the return journey, we took a spur to Ice Lake. A log made for a snack spot, as we watched 2 coots bobbing on the lake, and listened to the screeches of a Clark's Nutcracker.

The clock read 3.45 when we reached the truck, and the temperature had risen to 37 degrees. We contemplated another attempt at visiting Mammoth Hot Springs, but rejected the idea due to the late hour and the condition of the roads. A bit of a disappointment, but we were soon comforted by the warmth of the cabin and another delicious meal from Head Chef.

October 16: Exploring Teton Valley

In my research of "things to see" for this trip, I read several recommendations for the drive through the Teton Valley for its scenery and quaint towns such as Tetonia, Driggs and Victor. As we departed Island Park, with a temperature of 30 degrees and high winds, we were content to be in the truck for a bit! We hurtled down Highway 20, noticing the numerous signs for snowmobiles - obviously a popular spot for this sport in the winter. We also whizzed by a prominent sign for the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway, and a quick consult of the map showed this would not take us much out of our way and could be interesting. So Spousal Unit made a safe U-turn, and I am so glad he did - this road led to the Upper and Lower Mesa Falls - spectacular.

The Upper Falls had an extensive set of boardwalks that provided several vantage points and numerous placards with historic, geological and nature information.

If you would like to see (and hear) the Upper Falls in action, check out this video.

As we left the Falls, I was amused to see this snow pole. If you had any doubt about the snowfall they get in these parts, that pole should erase it! (The Lower Falls had only a distant overlook; we could see tiny people who had walked from the Upper Falls. We will have to make time for that walk the next time we come this way.)

Our next destination was the Darby Wind Cave, which I had also discovered during my Internet research. We were pleased to find that the temperature had warmed to a comfortable 42 degrees, and we set off with great anticipation. The trail was remarkably diverse - pine forest, canyon, alpine meadows. About halfway through the hike, you can spy the Wind Cave across the canyon. Can you see it near the middle of the picture to the right? If not, the collage below is from a closer vantage point. Near here, Spousal Unit spotted a bright red bird at the top of a pine tree. I grabbed my binoculars and soon had it in view. Later, I was able to easily identify it as a pine grosbeak.

As we reached the headwall of the canyon, we crossed a dry creek bed and began the final ascent toward the mouth of the cave. At one point, a rope is secured between trees to help hikers pull themselves up a particular steep section. We were grateful for a set of steps that had been constructed to climb the final 30 feet or so. That section was wet and icy and would have been treacherous without them. (The blue speck at left is Spousal Unit.) We had read ahead of time about the highly technical nature of this cave - with steep drop-offs and deep, cold water, most of it should only be explored by experienced spelunkers with full caving equipment. We ventured about 50 feet inside, enough to get an an interior shot and an interesting picture looking out of the cave. (There is a passageway from the drop-offs to a nearby ice cave, which produces a cold wind. This is what lends its name to the Wind Cave.)

Looking at the thick brown foliage in the meadows, and the uncountable bare-branched aspen, I could imagine that this hike would be even more jaw-dropping in the summer and early fall. The barren trees make it slightly easier to spot the Clark's nutcrackers and a Steller's Jay, while a hawk lazily circled overhead. The sun came out as we re-traced our steps, and I thoroughly enjoyed the downhill tramp, absorbing the earthy autumn aroma and the pine scent cast into the air by the sun's rays. (In studying the map for this post, I have just realized that while the trailhead for this hike is in Idaho, the cave itself is in Wyoming!)

We cruised on down Highway 33, with the Tetons looming on the southeastern horizon. As you reach the summit of Teton Pass (8,431 feet) the valley that encompasses Jackson, Wyoming spreads before you. I literally gasped out loud. My picture of the valley is not the best, but perhaps you can get the general idea.

We passed several appealing bars; people were seated outside, soaking up the autumn sunshine. On a normal day, we would have selected one and enjoyed a beverage. But it is not a normal world, and all of them were much too populated. We decided to go straight to our accommodation for the next 3 nights, a cabin at the Cowboy Village Resort in Jackson. We sure were ready to eat when Head Chef put this on our table. A fitting end to another wonderful day.

Mosaic Monday

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Sunday, November 8, 2020

Mosaic Monday #104: Road Trippin', Part II

October 14: A Classic Yellowstone Day

Ask anyone about Yellowstone National Park, and you are likely to hear one or more of the following: Geysers, bison, mud pits, traffic, elk. On our first day in the Park, we were blessed to experience all of the above, and more (well, except for the traffic!)

Our day began with sustenance, Head Chef style. (I am not shy about singing his praises, but for this trip, he really pushed the boat out. Knowing that we would not be visiting many restaurants, he prepared numerous meals ahead of time, and froze them. His menu planning for breakfast AND dinner was detailed and sumptuous - no cereal for breakfast in this cabin!)

From the moment we entered the Park, wonderful vistas spread before us. And just as quickly, we spotted our first wildlife, a bull elk. Well, actually, we spotted the cars pulled over at random spots on the road, and figured THEY had seen something. (Can you see the pale dot on the hillside, on the left-hand side? I know; it looked better through the binoculars!)

I was fascinated with the rapid changes in topography - open prairies one mile, and high rock formations the next.

Near this point, we took a small hike to Harlequin Lake. It was decidedly average; I suppose we are spoiled by all the alpine lakes we visit in Montana. But our next stop, Gibbon Falls, made up for it.

As we drove, we occasionally passed through steam, obviously the product of an un-named steam vent or hot spring close to the road. Yellowstone was established in 1872 as the world's first national park primarily because of its unparalleled collection of geysers, hot springs, mudpots and steam vents. So I was delighted when we made our initial stop at one of the geothermal features, Artists' Paintpots.

Mudpots are acidic features with a limited water supply. Their consistency and activity vary with the seasons and precipitation. The plaque below explains it well (you can enlarge by clicking on it).

A video is a better illustration than a still photo.

A short distance down the road, we arrived at Norris Geyser Basin. Parking the car, a few scrubby pine trees line a path to the visitor center. And then, suddenly, the path drops away and the basin yawned below us. The size and the number of features was incredible!

In the basin - far below the towering peaks of the Gallatin Mountains - water accumulates underground. Heated by the Yellowstone Volcano, the water travels upward to erupt from acidic geysers, rise from steaming fumaroles and simmer in shimmering pools.

Norris Geyser Basin is named for Philetus Walter Norris, second superintendent of Yellowstone from 1877 to 1882. He recorded this area's hydrothermal features in detail and also oversaw construction of some of the park's first roads, parts of which still remain as the Grand Loop Road.

By this time of the morning, our coffee cups were empty, and it was convenient to stop at Canyon Village for a refill. We took a spin around the gift shop, and chose a Christmas ornament as our souvenir, adding to our extensive collection of brass ornaments commemorating our vacations.

Canyon Village is named after the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, featuring two massive waterfalls and a deep, brilliantly colored canyon. The Yellowstone Canyon Rim Drive has numerous pullouts - we focused on the "Brink of the Lower Falls" and "Lookout Point".

Reaching the Brink overlook requires hiking a steep trail that winds down the canyon wall ... a wall of hardened rhyolite lava ... a wall exposed by the Yellowstone River while excavating the canyon.

In the photo above, I am standing at the Brink, gazing directly down into the canyon. It was dizzying. The moving water, the deafening crash of the falls striking bottom, the mist that shrouds the base of the canyon in such a way that you can't really fathom its depth.

Below Lower Falls, volcanic heat and gases soften the rhyolite rock. The river carves more quickly here than upstream, sculpting a ledge and creating a waterfall. To the right is a picture from the vantage of Lookout Point. From here you can appreciate the full 308 feet of Lower Falls.

We rolled south toward Hayden Valley, renowned for reliable wildlife sightings. Sure enough, a sizeable herd of bison grazed peacefully, and further on, a large number of spotting scopes lining a parking lot was the only clue we needed that something special was out there. We pulled in and soon enough two different grizzlies came into focus in our spotting scope. Too far for pictures, but you can trust me that they were magnificent!

We skirted Yellowstone Lake, framed on the east by the Absaroka Mountains, before the road turned westward toward the Old Faithful Complex. The lake is the largest high-elevation lake (above 7,000 feet) in North America. Many of the area's 1,000 to 3,000 earthquakes occur under the lake, causing uplift and subsidence events that continue to reshape the water's edge.

Judging from the stream of people heading for the parking lot, we had just missed an Old Faithful eruption. But I was OK with that; we saw the geyser erupt many moons ago when we came here with the kids. Plus, it meant there were less than a dozen people wandering the boardwalks - easy social distancing!

The Upper Geyser Basin, home of Old Faithful, hosts the majority of the world's active geysers. The concentration of hydrothermal features here provides ample evidence of Yellowstone's active volcano. Below is a video of the Spasmodic Geyser, bubbling away. You will also hear the wind - it was non-stop that day, making the temperatures feel even more bitter. Occasionally, I stood in the path of the steam, a futile attempt to warm up!

In this basin, partially molten rock (magma) from the volcano may be as close as 3 to 8 miles below your feet. Imagine!

Given the steam and the wind, at times it was almost impossible to obtain unobstructed views of the pools, especially the ones with the color. Here you can see my shadow, reaching high to gain perspective and amplify the blue shades of Crested Pool. With temperatures above 199 degrees F, Crested Pool is almost constantly boiling. The extreme heat prevents most bacterial growth, resulting in exceptionally clear blue water. As you would expect, every feature has signs warning about the dangers of leaving the boardwalk, especially for unstable ground. So, I thought it was interesting that you could see the hoof prints of bison around the features - they must know where it is safe to walk!!!

As we completed the loop, our final stop of the day was Fountain Paint Pot. That's a lot of mud!

Throughout the day, we observed numerous ravens in the parking lots. Of course, visitors are asked not to feed the wildlife, but it is apparent that the ravens have come to associate parking lots with nourishment! So, at our last stop, I had to take a picture of the raven "assigned" to this parking lot. I imagined this fellow was looking me over, assessing the likelihood of a handout. Sorry, buddy!

It seemed entirely fitting, as we neared the exit to the Park, returning to the cabin for the night, that we saw abundant wildlife. Four small gangs of elk, in the same location as the bull elk in the morning. A bald eagle ripping pieces off a freshly caught trout. And best of all, a herd of bison along the roadway (see video). Yes, the ideal ending to a classic Yellowstone day!

Editorial note: I am stunned that this is my 104th Mosaic Monday post. Two years. Where did that time go? My heartfelt thanks to everyone who supports Mosaic Monday - we are small but mighty!