The Meadows of Muker, UK (Showing Off "a Small Island" - Part 3)

If you have been following my blog, you know that this summer we hosted one of my sisters and her husband in the UK.  This is the third in my series on our trip, and only God can get the credit for the glorious weather that blessed us while hiking this idyllic slice of the world - truly the epitome of the English countryside!!!

Like many of the settlements in Upper Swaledale, Muker's name betrays its Viking origins.  It comes from the Norse word "Mjor-aker", meaning a small piece of farmed land.  Today, the unspoilt beauty of the area brings visitors from far and wide.

The flower-rich hay meadows around Muker are of international importance and are carefully protected.

Farmers receive grants which allow them to farm the land traditionally without using artificial fertilizers.

In 1998 the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, working with local farmers and with funding from the Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust, completed an important project laying stone flags on footpaths through these meadows.  The flags help to protect the plants from being trampled as well as allowing access for wheelchair users.

River Swale

(At this point, we were only a couple of miles into the hike.  My sister and her husband were gob-smacked (read: amazed) with the simple grandeur of the landscape and the precipitation-free weather.  It was refreshing for me and Spousal Unit - we have renewed appreciation for the beauty we had started to take for granted.)

The traditional late 18th and early 19th century barns and dry stone walls of Swaledale are the most characteristic feature of its landscape.  Both played a key part in a farmer's year.

Leaving Keld and heading back to Muker

The walls enclosed grazing land and the field barns housed cattle and the hay to feed them over the winter.  The muck collected inside was spread on the surrounding meadows in the spring to feed the next hay crop.

Maintaining the miles of walls and hundreds of stone-built barns is expensive.

The Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority in partnership with English Heritage, MAFF, and the European Union, helps local farmers to repair barns and walls with repair grants.

We wrapped this spectacular day with another fine English walking tradition - a drink in the pub at the end of the hike.  The Farmers Arms in Muker was stowed out (read: very full) with fellow walkers, adding to the spirit and camaraderie of a day in the summer sun, surrounded by nature's splendid gifts.  It's easy to see how people can get addicted to this pastime.  Walk on!

Linking to Nature Notes

Linking to Our World Tuesday

Linking to Outdoor Wednesday

Guardrails Not Required - Oughtershaw, UK (Showing Off "a Small Island" - Part 2)

Imagine a stretch of tarmac wide enough for one-and-a-half cars.  Now visualize that one side of the tarmac drops away sharply to the dale (read: valley) below.  Then add in the realization that there is no guardrail.  This, my friends, is the road over the Yorkshire Dales to the village of Oughtershaw.  It is also white-knuckle riding for those with a fear of heights (me), and the reason I don’t possess pictures of said road. I can offer plentiful shots of the village, so that will have to do!

This is the second part in my series highlighting the visit of my sister and brother-in-law to the UK.  Upon our arrival at Elm Cottage, we treated them to another fine British tradition – the summer barbecue, in which the food is cooked outside but can’t possibly be consumed outside because it’s 1) raining, 2) windy, 3) freezing, or 4) all of the above. 

Nevermind, while the cooking was underway, I kept myself warm by walking about the cottage and snapping pix.  

After our meal, we were ready to stretch our legs, and the four of us headed out for a meander while my in-laws (such kind souls) did the washing up (read: washed the dishes).

It was a misty evening, and brought to mind scenes from Wuthering Heights  and The Hound of the Baskervilles.  

Nevertheless, there were no sightings of Heathcliff, or a hound, or a car.  Good thing, too, since the roads did not get any wider in the village!

 

Instead, we got some of the classics: drooping tree branches coated with moss, sheep that are at once skittish and curious, and a plethora of plants making their residence on cottages and the ubiquitous dry stone walls.  And this was just the start of our Yorkshire adventure. (A relieved note of gratitude to Spousal Unit for his driving - not only was he maneuvering through the narrow lanes, he did it in a manual car!)

Linking to Our World Tuesday

Showing off 'a small island' - Part I (we don't need no raincoats!)

In 1995, Bill Bryson published 'Notes from a Small Island', his reflections on the UK as he was about to return to his native US.  In this series of posts, I will do my part to wax lyrical about my adopted country of the UK, through the lens of family members who were making their first trip there.

"You never know what is in your closet until you look"

Of course, any successful holiday (read vacation for anyone outside Europe) relies on planning.  In this respect, my sister and her husband were remarkably flexible, given that their current motto is to 'relentlessly root out hurry'.  We talked about planes, the best beer to drink, trains, the best beer to drink, villages to visit, must-see museums, the best beer to drink, and of course, clothing.   In Texas, coats are not commonly worn, so in the days leading up to departure, our recommendation to bring raincoats was met with a 'Hmmm - do we have any?'  Several hours later, I was relieved to get the above picture and text - success!



Spousal Unit planned a wonderful routing for us through Minneapolis and Amsterdam.  I love the Amsterdam airport - immigration and customs are a breeze.  Before we knew it, we had coffee and had settled into our gate to wait for our quick flight over to Newcastle.  It was then that he pointed out where I was sitting.  Off to a good start!  Hopefully this would not be auspicious for our trip, which would include a lot of walking!

The next day, our two guests arrived at the Darlington train station, via the Virgin train service from Kings Cross in London, where they had spent almost a week exploring all that the metropolis has to offer.  (Which, by the way, did not include any weather requiring rain coats.)  We whisked them off to my in-laws with just enough time to enjoy Mom's tea and to re-pack for our morning departure to the Yorkshire Dales.

Over 25 years ago, Spousal Unit introduced me to the public footpath system in the UK, and I know I fell in love with both at the same time - they are inextricably connected in my heart.  Thus it brings me great delight to share this national treasure with others. 

River Swale

How to describe the footpaths?  They are not just trails; they are an up-close, intimate look at the country.  Farms with all their best (sheep and their lambs) and their worst (just try tip-toeing through pastures frequented by a large herd of sheep).  Hand-built dry stone walls that have withstood the tests of 3 centuries stretch before you for miles.  Stiles that are often works of art in their own right.  And, our family favorite - 'random acts of castling' - the fact that you can be walking a path and all of a sudden come upon the ruin of a castle or an abbey.  So it was that we chose our first walk with my sister and her husband - to feature a 'random' abbey, Easby Abbey near Richmond.

Cottage garden with Easby Abbey in background

A small portion of the ruined abbey

I suppose I should thank Henry VIII.  "From 1536 to 1540 King Henry moved to dissolve the monasteries across England, as an act of religious defiance to the papacy in Rome, and in order to raise money from the sale of expensive materials that could be salvaged from the roofs and windows of the structures. Today, the English countryside is littered with some 800 sites, remnants of the religious metamorphosis England underwent at the hands of one of the most ruthless of Tudor monarchs. For visitors to England, a trip to one of these offers a unique window into the history of the country, and like the medieval castles that punctuate the countryside in most counties, the Monastery ruins are mysteriously ethereal in their ability to bring the past to life." (England.net)

For all we know, absent dear Henry, the monasteries might have disappeared altogether without the protection that comes from a designation as a historic site.  Or access might be restricted at the site of a functioning abbey.  Instead, today we get to admire nature's way of reclaiming a site, even in the smallest of nooks and crannies.






I suspect that footpaths also appeal to the voyeur in all of us - the opportunity to peer over a garden wall, especially the high ones, to see what is being protected from our view.  Quite quickly, my sister and her husband recognized that flower gardens, big and small, are a rampant past-time.  No matter how small the space, even if only a doorway, it possesses flowers.

A critical aspect of walking in the UK (and it may be the only reason some people engage) is the stop you make mid-way (or at the end, or BOTH, as the case may be) at a tea/coffee shop or the pub.  (I am still not sure if pub owners strategically placed their establishments at the end of paths, or if the path makers were always headed to the pub!)

View of Richmond Castle with River Swale below

Bridge over River Swale

On this particular day, our round-trip walk led us to the tea shop within the re-modeled rail station.  (This renovation is a superb example of using a historic space in a creative way that honors its roots - you can learn a lot about the history of rail in Richmond while enjoying an ice cream or a variety of baked goods, not to mention purchasing adult beverages from the distillery, watching a movie or perusing the art gallery.) For our part, we tucked into scones and tea (and bought some beer and cider, if truth must out!)

Waterfall on River Swale

Although it was not a long walk, it felt good to replace the hiking boots with sandals, which gave my sister and her husband another cultural experience: the sight of people changing their shoes in a public car park (read parking lot) is as ubiquitous as tea.

But there was not a raindrop to be found anywhere - tell me again why we brought the rain coats?


Linking  to Our World Tuesday

Report: Week 19 of Retirement (or Man With Hat)

As long as I can remember, there has been the hat.  The hat that came with us on every vacation.    The hat that always has a whiff of insect repellent, sun cream and fish bait.  The hat that occasionally gets lovingly repaired.  Actually, I guess it would be more accurate to say that I remember the hat came after the kids.  Why?  Because my first real memory of the hat is Spousal Unit clapping it onto his head on the first day of a family trip, and declaring to me and the kids "Now we're on vacation."  And that catchphrase became the hallmark of every vacation since then.

Yorkshire Dales with my sister, my brother-in-law and

Man With Hat

So, does the catchphrase still have meaning now that we are on a 'permanent vacation'?  As I have pondered this, I have cast my mind back to those family trips and how I felt when Spousal Unit would utter his proclamation.  A warm glow would come over all of us in anticipation of new adventures and fun together as a family.  Adventure.  Fun.  Togetherness.  Laughter.  Later, as the kids got older, there was a shared look and smiles that communicated "There goes Padre again!"  And yet, there was comfort in this tradition that continued regardless of time and place and the number of changes that might be going on around us.

Man With Hat hiking Jewel Basin near Kalispell

Man With Hat on the Highline Trail in Glacier National Park

And so I have concluded that his droll catchphrase still has meaning for us in retirement, and maybe even more so.  Adventure.  Fun.  Togetherness.  Laughter.  Tradition.


Happy Birthday to my dear Spousal Unit.

If I Should Fall Behind

We said we'd walk together baby come what may
That come the twilight should we lose our way
If as we're walking a hand should slip free
I'll wait for you
And should I fall behind
Wait for me

We swore we'd travel darlin' side by side
We'd help each other stay in stride
But each lover's steps fall so differently
But I'll wait for you
And if I should fall behind
Wait for me

Now everyone dreams of love lasting and true
Oh, but you and I know what this world can do
So let's make our steps clear that the other may see
I'll wait for you
And if I should fall behind
Wait for me

Now there's a beautiful river in the valley ahead
There 'neath the oak's bough soon we will be wed
Should we lose each other in the shadow of the evening trees
I'll wait for you
Should I fall behind
Wait for me

Darlin' I'll wait for you
Should I fall behind
Wait for me

Yeah, I'll wait for you
Should I fall behind
Wait for me
I'll wait for you
Should I fall behind
Wait for me

Songwriters: BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN

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