Smoke on the Water - Day 3 of our Canada Road Trip

The smoke caught up to us - and my track record as the ultimate tour guide came to an abrupt halt.  On the third day of our Canada road trip, focused on sites near Jasper, smoke from the forest fires to the south obscured anything at a distance.

The sight-seeing brochure says "Welcome to one of the most picturesque

spots in the Canadian Rockies.  Nestled between Leah Peak, Samson

Peak and Mount Paul on the left, and Mounts Charlton, Unwin,

Mary Vaux and Llysfran Peak to the right, Maligne Lake offers  

unlimited photographic potential."  Not on August 15.

With no other choice, I put all my attention on objects close at hand.

But on our next stop, I felt somewhat redeemed. Just when I thought we had witnessed the mother of all canyons in this region (see previous post), we strolled the mesmerizing trails of Maligne Canyon.  

At the waterfalls near the First Bridge, the Maligne River flows at a few cubic meters per second on an average June day. Below the Sixth Bridge, up to 45 cubic meters per second can pass out of the canyon.  The additional water comes from springs between the Fourth and Fifth Bridges, turning the meandering Maligne River into a torrent of rushing water.

Underground spring joining the Maligne River

The Maligne River originates from Medicine Lake, which can be likened to a giant leaky bathtub. It drains through a potentially enormous underground cave system, re-surfacing about 16 km downstream, through springs along the walls of Maligne Canyon.  The water can take less than 12 hours, during peak run-off times, or as long as 88 hours during the winter, to complete its underground journey.

Note water dripping from sides of canyon

 

On our way back to Jasper, we ventured to Pyramid Lake, only a few miles from the town center.  A normal day would showcase the jagged edges of Pyramid Mountain, but I didn't take a single picture since the smoke completely hid the beauty from view.  I mentally battled to conquer my disappointment, sprung from a desire to reveal these vistas to my Mom and sister.  I will be here again; they probably won't.

We had a pleasant evening in Jasper - no more driving but plenty of moseying around on the hunt for souvenirs.

For dinner, we landed at the Olive Bistro, a quirky restaurant just a few blocks from our hotel.

Passage of time, aided by shopping therapy, drinks and dinner - it was enough to vaporize my attitude about the smoke.

"We cannot change the inevitable.  The only thing we can do is play on the one string we have, and that is our attitude.  I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% of how I react to it."  Charles R. Swindoll

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My Hiking Journal - Entry 7

Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - Fish Lake - 6 miles out and back

Perhaps the most notable aspect of this hike is what occurred AFTER our jaunt - on August 10, lightning ignited a forest fire later named the Sprague Fire.  Ultimately, flames consumed sections of the very paths we had trod.  But let me start from the beginning.

The trail hugs Snyder Creek for a couple of miles, climbing steadily through dense forests, with cedars, hemlocks and larches of the lower elevations giving way to white pines and Douglas firs.

Birds-eye view of Snyder Creek; decimated in September by raging flames

Despite the thick woodland, you can catch a glimpse of Lake McDonald at one point during the ascent.

Fire crept close to left-hand side 

of this bridge

We crossed three streams, all running fast with continuing spring melt.  How fortunate that hand-hewn bridges spanned each one!

The last mile winds through a mossy forest to the lake.  Did you know that two trees rubbing together can sound a lot like a grizzly? I became Snow White in the scene when she is lost in the wood and imagines monsters with creepy eyes, and willow branches that snatch at her clothes.  Bear spray in hand and senses on high alert, we finally relaxed when we arrived at the lake with no bear in sight.  (On the return, we heard the same sound and had a good laugh at ourselves!)

Fish Lake, looking north

The lake is set in a small forested pocket in Snyder Ridge, from which only the surrounding woodland can be seen.

Fish Lake, looking west; forest at west end of lake was consumed in the fire

Perhaps the depth of the forest explains the quantity of beaver chomping near the lake, although a lodge was not visible.  Given the fire, I wonder about the fortunes of the beaver and other wildlife in the vicinity.

Spousal Unit and Number One Son (#1S) tried their hands at fishing (it IS called FISH Lake), with no luck.  Perhaps the cold front that had passed through the night before put the trout off their appetites.   A few snow flakes (more akin to miniscule ice balls) fell during our time at the lake.  We had not planned for frigid temperatures; the forecast earlier in the week called for better weather.  Memo to us!

As we returned to the trail head, we met a crew clearing the 'ditches' designed to drain water off the trail. Looking closely in one, we spied a frog that we later identified as a Pacific Chorus Frog.

To top off our day, we popped in to Lake McDonald Lodge, a short walk from the trail head.  The historic lodge is a 3 1/2-story structure built in 1913; in 1987 it was designated a National Historic Landmark as one of the nation's finest examples of large-scale Swiss chalet architecture.  The lobby is a large, open space that extends to the third story.  A massive fireplace anchors one side of the lobby, with its concrete floor scored in a flagstone pattern and inscribed with messages in several American Indian languages.

Clockwise from left: chandelier in lobby; huckleberry lemonade; Jammer touring bus; Salmon pate platter;

public jigsaw puzzle in the lobby; flowers on back patio

So back to the fire.  As shown on the bulletin board below, created after the fire was (mostly) extinguished, Sprague Fire gobbled up 16,982 acres of Glacier National Park and $7M of resources.  At times, the smoke across the valley reduced visibility to less than a mile.  The Lodge, located a hair's breadth from one of the leading edges of the fire, was closed several weeks before the normal end of the season due to smoke and for the safety of employees and guests.  The Lodge survived the conflagration, and it was truly a blessing that no firefighters were harmed during the 7 weeks spent combatting the fire.   I am glad we had the opportunity to hike this trail before the fire - it will be a long time before it looks the same, or is even accessible.  To this day, all of the trails in this section of the park are closed, and it is unknown when they will open again due to ongoing danger from damaged trees and clogged trails.

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Another Fine Day in the English Countryside (Showing Off "a Small Island" - Part 4)

England.  Footpaths.  Sunshine.  Flowers.  Pubs.  Which one of these does not belong?  Some days, you get it all!  Come along and see, in Part 4 of my series featuring our tour for my sister and her husband this summer.

Signpost; BW means Bridleway; FP means footpath

My in-laws, Spousal Unit, my sister and her husband

Following a hearty breakfast at Elm Cottage (a self-catering cottage means a talented chef known as Spousal Unit can prepare a delectable feast of his choosing), we were exhilarated with another blue-sky day, ideal for a walk to the village of Kettlewell.

It is believed that the name Kettlewell is Anglo Saxon and comes from Cetel Wella, which means a bubbling spring or stream.  At first, the footpath clings to the River Wharfe. 

Soon enough, meadows push in and open the vista.

We are grateful for the shade when the footpath joins up with a fencerow, where the oak trees stand in formation like an army of tin soldiers.  I wonder about the landowner those many years ago, deciding to sow the young oaks in this majestic panorama.

As we enter the village, we are mafting (read: hot) and there's little choice but to seek out

refreshment in the beer garden of The Racehorses Hotel.

Have you ever tasted Pimm's?  Pimm's No. 1 is a gin-based liquor made in England from dry gin, liqueur, fruit juices and spices.  It was invented in 1823 by James Pimm, who served it at his oyster bar in London.   A thirst-quenching, supremely summery drink, Pimm's Cup mixes lemony soda (or ginger ale), fruit, cucumbers, mint and a fortifying shot of Pimm's.  I first met Pimm's (the drink) at the school Field Day during our expatriate assignment in the UK (yes, there was alcohol at a school event).  I have been a fan ever since.  So refreshing!

Temptation? To linger in the beer garden, sipping Pimm's.  But the splendor of the countryside beckons, and we return to the footpath.  One of our many rewards is the flora soaking up energy 'while the sun shines.'

That evening, we easily found our appetites at The Crown in Hawes.

This pub has a distinctive beer garden with an upper level offering an unparalleled outlook on the dale.

I couldn't defy the urge to snap pictures in the beer garden and on the street as we strolled back to the car - I wish everyone would be as meticulous with their gardens!

Summer nights are a treasure ... they go on forever!  Once we returned to the cottage, I had the occasion to burn off my risotto on another footpath nearby.

England.  Footpaths.  Sunshine. Flowers.  Pubs.  I belong here. 

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The Spirit is A-Movin'

My Christmas spirit has arrived.  Unpredictable, it is rarely one event that brings it on.  Rather, an accumulation of positive emotions rolls in like a wave and I am caught up, rising on it like a surfer.  My goodwill is overflowing - and I think I know why.

ONE: Bread pudding.  I am not conscious of my rationale, yet bread pudding seems to go hand-in-mitten with autumn.  Maybe since it's warm, filling and deeply satisfying?  Especially when it's served with huckleberry sauce and vanilla ice cream!

TWO: Feathers and fur.  Deer are certainly not unique in our neighborhood.  After all, as you read in a recent post, they ate our Halloween pumpkins!  But glimpsing one at a gallop in the snow is priceless.

These two bald eagles kept close watch over some carrion less than a mile from our log home, making sure the ravens below didn't consume too much.  In 1978, the year bald eagles were listed as a federally endangered species, only 12 known nesting pairs remained in Montana.  In 2014, the last year data was collected, biologists counted 700 nesting pairs.  Incredible - I'm so glad we're going to be neighbors!

Our furbaby Josie has been vomiting (sorry if this is gross), a growing cause for concern that prompted a trip to the vet.  Turns out, she has lost almost a pound in the last 9 months and Doc suggested blood work and an ultrasound.  I won't keep you in suspense - she has a gall bladder issue that can be treated with medication - whew.  (Equally important, it is medication we can mix with her wet food - it is almost impossible to give her meds directly unless you want Wolverine-like scratches!)  Above you can see how tired (and relieved) she was after the day at the vet!

THREE: Walks "over the river and through the woods".  Water, snow, sky, trees - the Artist's palette stretches out toward the horizon - an immeasurable gift for the casual observer, and for the blogger intent on capturing images that come close to replicating the real thing.

Whitefish River

Pedestrian bridge

Nature's ornaments

Coming night ...

After a snow, the woods are at once a clean sheet and an open book; the white brings a purity that I am reluctant to mar with my boot prints.  And yet it is prime time to see animal tracks, and how snow manages to pile onto even the most delicate plants.  So peaceful.

FOUR: The refreshing passion of youth.  As a capstone project in their senior year, the students of the culinary art program at Flathead Valley Community College manage a pop-up restaurant in the kitchen at the school.  The chefs-in-training do it all, from naming the establishment to defining the menu to executing on the 3 weekends the restaurant will exist. 

The name Six One reflects the gender composition of the class - six females and one male. The team selected a menu of international small plates to delight our taste buds.

Given Spousal Unit's penchant for cooking, it was a match made in heaven.

He could watch the preparation while we savored our selections.

And savor we did, the food and the top-notch service.  The culinary program can count on our reservation every year!

FIVE: Pride in Montana.  Did you know that every year, a different National Forest is selected to provide a tree for the West Lawn of the U.S. Capitol for the Christmas season?  And did you know that this year, that National Forest is nowhere other than Montana?

This year's tree, a 79-foot Engelmann Spruce, was chosen from the Kootenai National Forest in the northwest corner of the state.  It was harvested near Yaak on 11/8 and will travel 3,000 miles via truck.

And did you know that we saw the tree in Whitefish as part of its whistle-stop tour? YES, we did!

Rig with escort - Big Mountain of Whitefish in the background

Text on Rig: BIG SKY. BIG TREE. BIG JOURNEY.

Spousal Unit signing our names to the banner

Top of the tree, visible through clear plastic at the end of the rig

Check to see if the tree is coming to a town near you!!!

Larry "The Trusty Trucker" Spiekermeier, will deliver the tree to the Capitol on 11/27.  (A native of Plains, Montana, he told us he was chosen for the honor based on his safety record - 1.6 million accident-free miles.)  The Capitol grounds team will secure the tree and decorate it with thousands of hand-crafted ornaments from communities across Montana.  The tree will be lit by the Speaker of the House, Paul Ryan, on 12/6 during a ceremony on the West Lawn beginning at 5 p.m.  Assuming it is televised, this is one proud Montana family that will be watching!

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